Question:
How does suspension work and why is it important?
BACKGROUND
Answer:
During the horse and buggy days someone figured out that if the wheels
weren't mounted solidly to the frame of a carriage and they could articulate
enough to follow the contours of the roads the ride quality was greatly
enhanced. The jarring of the wheels as they impacted the irregularities of
the surface that they were rolling over wasn't transmitted directly to the
chassis and hence the wagon occupants kidneys. The other benefit of the suspended
carriage was that when the wheel impacted a bump the fact that it could give
a bit meant less broken wagon wheels. With less danger in breaking wheels and
a better ride quality that meant that the wagon could be pulled at a higher
rate of speed over a bumpy surface.
In Canada the McLaughlin family in Tyrone Ontario had the western worlds best suspension they moved there tiny carriage works to Oshawa and built
there patented suspension for carriages and sold these components all over North
America to other carriage builders. Eventually they got into building
motorized carriages , then automobiles based on the design and components of a
manufacturer in Michigan called Buick. The sons of the founder of the
carriage works primarily the younger son Sam McLaughlin were instrumental in the
creation of General Motors. In Toronto we have a planetarium donated by Sam that
carries the family name and a street named after Sam's wife Adelaide.
With the arrival of motorized carriages on the scene and eventually rubber coated wagon wheels then Pneumatic tires it became evident during all this
other development that it wasn't enough to just suspend the frame or chassis on
springs but necessary to dampen the movement or control the energy of the
springs. The spring damper is still called a damper in Europe, this side of
the pond we have labeled them shock absorbers. The fact is that they really do
both these things , they keep the suspension and springs from bottoming or
hitting the end of the movement range when a large bump is encountered and they stop
the vehicle from continuing to bounce up and down after the
bump has been encountered.
THE MODERN CAR
In a lot of ways what we desire from suspension for the modern car and the
modern passenger are still very similar in terms of suspension) to the old
horse drawn carriage, the difference is in the required capabilities. We are not
just satisfied with a slightly smoother ride into town from the farm over the
rutted gravel road. In some of our specialty race vehicles we want to maintain
control at speeds of 440 Km /hr up the Mulsanne straight plus we want to have
ultimate quiet in the back of the limo on the way to the airport while we negotiate
that million dollar deal on the cell phone.
Modern suspensions are like many other mechanical components a
collection of compromises. We want a wheel to move ultimately in a certain way when it
negotiates the roads irregularities to give a smooth ride usually this means
a softer ratio spring so that the wheel can react very easily --but the spring
cannot be too weak because it must hold the weight of the vehicle suspended.
We want the vehicle to be stable and not move around too much so we want
perhaps a stiffer spring but this will compromise ride. Depending on the spring rate
the spring damping rate or shock rate must be adjusted to match the spring
characteristics - - too much damping on either compression or on extension
will not allow the spring to do its job and too little damping and the spring
will not be controlled and the car will bounce around - - - we've all seen these
guys driving down the highway with bad shocks the car porposing away after every
bump.
Of course it gets more complicated - - - the wheel hub or the unit
that the wheel is bolted to that contains bearings that allows the wheel to spin
and the vehicle consequently to roll along the road is housed in what is called
the upright. This upright has attachment points where connecting arms fasten.
These arms have pivoting ends and are the bits that connect the whole assembly to
the chassis or frame of the vehicle. The arms can take many forms - - usually
what each manufacturer considers to be the best system for the application of his
vehicle but anyway this whole system allows the wheel assembly to move up
and down and follow the bumps on the road. Now if the wheels are on the front
of the vehicle they are usually the ones that also have to turn as well. When
someone refers to "suspension geometry" what they are referring to is the
arch that the wheel scribes as it moves up and down which is a function of the
geometric relation ship of all of the articulating arms and there attachment
points. Which geometry arch is used buy any one manufacturer is determined
by all the ride and handling qualities that they think that they want plus a
pile of packaging issues that all surface when you try and pick your ultimate
geometry an fit it all under the body of the car add in the fancy alloy
wheels and stick a shock and spring combination in among the collection of pivoting
arms. Remembering of course that where you put the spring and shock landing
points has a huge impact on the leverage that the weight of the vehicle puts
on the shock and spring combination so every time you move it slightly you have
to change the rates of both.
There is a couple of other huge factors that we haven't even mentioned
yet one of those is tires the other is alignment. Every time that a different
tire is put on the car the inputs that the suspension sees change. Every tire
manufacturer has a slightly different construction which of course is the
best as far as they are concerned but each has a different ability to conform or
resist conforming to the road surface and in fact has is own sort of
internal suspension this coupled with the different types of rubber that is used to
give different wear or traction characteristics all changes the way that the
inputs are fed into the suspension system. You may even have a situation where a
certain type of tire will reverberate at a frequency that will excite
certain elements of the suspension and you may get a hum or roar from the tires on
certain road surfaces and it may only haven on one vehicle design with a
certain tire and not on another.
Alignment is another story it is as simple in one sense as making sure
that all the wheels are pointed in the same direction or are "aligned" however
there is always more to it rolling wheels are and operating dynamic system so
suspension settings are created that will create an aligned condition when
the vehicle is moving. the static settings are all based on what the tire will
see in action. In the old days of the carriage and speeds up to that attained
by a running team of horses as long as the wheels were bolted to the opposite
ends of the same straight axle and the two axles were parallel the system was happy.
Not these days - - - Front wheel drive cars require a totally different set of
settings than a rear or four wheel drive vehicle because of the way the
torque from the engine is fed to the wheels. Taller high center of gravity 4x4
vehicles with longer suspension travel require totally different settings to the low
slung sporty types factors here include the speed that the vehicle spends
most of its time traveling at coupled with the areo dynamic loads that the
vehicle sees at these speeds due to its shape plus the type of lateral loads that
the vehicle is likely to see negotiating corners. The settings that the
manufacturers give in the manuals and set the cars at when they go over the
curb are for general all round vehicle use and reasonable tire wear. They
sometimes can guess wrong at the type of driving that their vehicles will see in
service and certain vehicles can have a reputation for wearing tires prematurely
even though the alignment shop or dealer swears that the settings are exactly
what the factory recommends. Here is where a good alignment shop can shine by
assessing the type of use the vehicle gets by listening to the customer and
looking at how the tire wear patterns are developing
they can solve a lot of these wear and handling problems. An example of
this was the Acura NSX that seemed to have a habit of eating up tires on the rear
of the car when set at factory settings but by modifying the settings slightly
using the wear pattern as a guide normal wear could be easily attained. When
it comes to the more sporty cars the settings become even more critical as the
suspension pivot bushings tend to be firmer to give better handling response
and control at higher speeds not that on todays highways they will always see
higher speed but they are capable of it and could be driven at higher operating
speeds so the tire type and suspension settings are accordingly adjusted. Now if
the owner has a habit of playing Schumacher at the local track on weekends the
suspension will have to set up totally different than for the Yorkville
poser.
The higher loads that the track use puts on everything may require much more
aggressive static settings in order that the dynamic positioning of the tire
allows the tire to do its job best. If these settings were put on the posers
car he would experience premature or abnormal tire wear and consequently the
highway driving settings of the poser or the touring driver would not allow the tire
on the track to develop the traction levels necessary for ultimate cornering
ability in fact you would get premature or abnormal wear on the track with
the touring settings. The tough alignment is for the car that sees the track a
few times and only goes touring a few times this is where listening to the
customer to find out where they are willing to accept the biggest compromise is so
important - - if you are the customer make sure they understand what you
think is your priority.
Now just a bit on the setting jargon - - -
in the world of suspension when they talk about toe what they are referring to is the parallel of the wheels
in relation to each other and to the chassis "Toe In" or "positive toe" is
when the wheels are closer together at the front than at the back (in direction
of travel ) or I guess you could say their pigeon toed if you've ever watched a
pigeon walk you Know what we mean "Toe Out " or "positive toe is when the
wheels are set so they want to roll away from each other (standing like the average
sailor ).
The next important setting is the camber that's were the top of
the wheel leans slightly in or out at the top in relation to the car "positive
camber" is where the bottom of the tire is in further and the top out
further so the tires leaning away from each other "negative camber " is where the tires
are leaning in towards each other at the top. There was a car called a Corvair
that got a rough time from a chap named Nader due to the Corvair's suspensions
ability to go from negative camber to a high degree of positive camber in
certain handling situations at high speed the car could be launched by the
operator quite effectively into a rollover. Other vehicles at this time in
history were guilty of this characteristic as well but Chevrolet took the
hit and the design didn't survive. The final setting that we will mention is
Castor - this is the amount of tilt in the vertical theoretic pivoting point of a
wheel when it moves to steer - - we say theoretical because even wheels that don't
steer (like rear wheels generally ) can have caster settings the caster is
the angle that the vertical pressure of the weight is forward or aft of the
vertical "positive caster tends to want to make the wheel return to the forward
rolling position (like shopping cart wheels or bicycle wheels ) More caster can give
a car a great feeling of stability - - - but it can make the thing a bear to
manipulate around a parking lot Thank you for power steering when you are
parking that big Benz in the corner plaza lot - - - vehicles with a lot of
caster look a bit like a road grater when the wheels are turned because lots
of caster gives lots of induced camber when the wheels are turned- - - - oh oh
here we go again - - you guessed it - - - the settings are all
interdependent when you adjust one - - the others change so it is even necessary for the
alignment guys to adjust the settings in a certain order due to the
geometric interdependency
Sounds complicated - - - it is and not everyone gets it right - - manufacturers do the best that they can to give everyone they think might be
a customer what they think they might like and hope that the styling and
marketing guys can convince every that they just have to have one and then the
customer may not use the vehicle for any thing like the designer thought the vehicle
might be good for
When it comes to racing the whole thing is really the same but different - - - the settings are the same things being adjusted but the only rubber in a
Formula One or Indy car suspension is the tire - - -every thing is
suspended
on very precise spherical or articulating bearings that are aerospace strong
and when you add a pile of extra downforce from various on board
aerodynamic devices the spring rates can be in the thousands of pounds as opposed to a couple
of hundred for the average grocery getter the shocks to control these spring
rates cost more than some cars each and are fully track side adjustable to get
that little extra from the car and its tires and speaking of tires the operating
temperature of these huge donuts is a least 100 deg C on the surface hot
enough to cook a greasy egg breakfast although with the sticky tar like
surface that they have while operating you might have trouble getting you plate off
the tire. all this means that the settings are ultra critical and teams will
take hours to set the car just right to get the most out of the driver and his
chariot for the day - - - but sometimes the team doesn't get it right
either as a slight temperature change of the track surface or the driver getting too
much or not enough heat in the tires either too fast or not fast enough changes
the whole picture and these slight little changes because of the precision of
the suspension and its components amplify the effects and make a huge difference
to how the car sticks to the track and makes the difference of a second or so
in lap times and the difference between 1st and last when the flag drops.
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