TOWING SAFETY

Getting Your Race Car to the Track Safely

Story by John Pentelei-Molnar Jr.

As seen in Grassroots Motorsports magazine

Trailer Types
Trailer Braking Systems
Trailer Buying Tips
Trailering Tips
Hitches

If you remain in racing long enough, there's probably going to come a time when you need a proper tow rig and trailer. If you do find yourself searching for a towing package, there are a number of factors you need to consider to ensure that your trailering needs are met accurately and safely.

Proper towing requires three things: the right trailer, the right hitch, and a vehicle in good condition and rated for the load it will be towing. The last requirement is fairly easy to research, since every automotive manufacturer publishes trailer weight maximums for its new cars each year. But finding the right trailer and hitch combination is not quite so simple.

Actually, there is a fourth item required for safe towing: a brain behind the wheel. Towing is serious business and should be approached with the same attention to detail required for racing. Never fear, though: we've researched the topic for you. The first part of this article will focus on the types of trailers available, the things to look for when purchasing a trailer, and proper and helpful trailering tips. Next, we'll look at the different types of hitches, and the factors involved in selecting the right hitch for your needs.

Trailers, like automobiles, are manufactured for thousands of applications and come in all shapes, sizes and configurations. As with cars, these differences in individual trailer specifications can mean the difference between a trailer that pulls cleanly and smoothly behind your rig, and one that bucks and sways like a wild mare at a Sunday rodeo.

To learn more about the do's and don'ts of the trailer world, we visited the manufacturing facilities of AROS Trailers in El Cajon, CA. AROS has been making quality open trailers for more than 25 years. The company manufactures everything from ATV to transport trailers; its full line of automotive trailers has made it very popular with racers. AROS' owner, Larry King, provided us with ample information on all aspects of trailer design, selection, and tips for towing.

We also visited Gordon Webster at TrailerSource in Marietta, GA. TrailerSource is a distributor of various trailers, including both open and enclosed models.

Tew Hitch City, our local trailer hitch installer, also took some time to show us around their facility. They have handled the trailer hitch installation on practically every GRM project car, and we have always been happy with the work. They can also boast one of cleanest work areas we have ever visited.

TRAILER TYPES:

OPEN
An open trailer is one which exposes the trailer load to the outside environment. This design features a flat, usually metal surface that's opened in the center. Utility trailers have low side rails on three sides; racing trailers do not. These trailers don't provide any protection to their contents, but tend to be lighter and provide less aerodynamic drag than closed trailers. Open trailers also offer the advantage of being relatively inexpensive to purchase, costing about $1400 to $2500 new.

ENCLOSED
An enclosed trailer provides protection from the outside environment, and also provides an added measure of security because the trailer functions as a portable, lockable garage. These trailers tend to be heavier and less aerodynamic than open trailers; they're also more expensive. Enclosed trailers usually cost in the $4000 to $6000 range (new), but can go much higher.
Once you determine what type of trailer you need, it's time to decide which type of suspension will work best for your needs.

SINGLE AXLE
A single-axle trailer has just that: a single, load-bearing axle. These trailers can be found with or without brakes, either enclosed or open. Single-axle open trailers are pretty rare, usually reserved for formula or other small cars (few will hold anything longer than 14 feet). Suspension is usually of the leaf spring variety. According to the folks at AROS, this type of trailer is ideal if the combined load of the trailer and contents is under 3000 pounds; trailer brakes are then optional. Anything heavier than that requires the use of brakes (in most states a legal requirement-common sense everywhere else), and AROS recommends a dual-axle setup. Single-axle trailers tend to be more unstable on the road and don't track as well as dual-axle units. According to TrailerSource's Gordon Webster, however, the difference is slight and shouldn't scare you away from a well-built single-axle trailer if you have a small race car (under 2000 pounds).

DUAL AXLE
A dual-axle trailer uses two load-bearing axles, and can be either open or enclosed. These units usually feature either leaf springs or independent torsion bar suspensions. Brakes are recommended, if not required. A dual-axle trailer tracks more accurately over varying road surfaces. In addition, if there are brakes on both axles (which is not usually the case) braking capacity is double that of a single-axle design.

TRAILER BRAKING SYSTEMS:
In addition to the various types of trailers, there are several types of trailer braking systems.

HYDRAULIC SURGE BRAKES
A hydraulic surge system consists of an actuating cylinder that is usually integrated with the trailer tongue assembly. As a vehicle applies its brakes, the "surge" of the trailer towards the decelerating tow vehicle automatically compresses the surge actuator. As the cylinder compresses, force is applied to the master cylinder on the trailer; this, in turn, applies force to each of the braking cylinders.

Proper use of surge brakes is primarily dependent upon the assurance of unrestricted movement between the tongue-mounted main housing and the hitch-mounted surge assembly. (NOTE: Because of this last requirement, surge brakes are not recommended when using a weight-equalizing hitch. More on this later.) Surge brakes are also more expensive, and usually only justified when you're using several different tow vehicles that would each require an electric brake controller.

ELECTRIC BRAKES
Electric braking systems connect the braking system of the trailer to the braking system of the tow vehicle. This is accomplished by the installation of a cab-controlled braking controller. Activated electrically, the braking force of the trailer is generated through the use of magnets and drum armature plates located within each wheel braking system. Electric brakes are usually preferred over surge brakes because their operation is independent of the braking ability of the tow vehicle. For example, if the brakes go South in the tow vehicle, it is then unable to generate enough deceleration surge to activate the surge brakes. But the driver can manually activate electric brakes, thus allowing the trailer brakes to slow the entire rig. This is the way to go for most applications.

TRAILER BREAKAWAY SYSTEM
In some states, any trailer with a braking system is required to have what is known as a breakaway system. In the event of a trailer hitch failure-if the trailer becomes disconnected from the hitch-the breakaway system will automatically apply the trailer brakes to stop the now-independent trailer. Trailers equipped with electric brakes carry a separate battery to activate the breakaway system, while braking force is applied hydraulically in surge brake applications. (A cable locks the brakes in a break-away situation.) Check the applicable laws to see if breakaway systems are required in your locale.

TRAILER BUYING TIPS:
There are many factors to consider when buying a trailer. AROS and TrailerSource offer the following tips:

Go with an established trailer manufacturer. As with anything else, you usually get what you pay for, so go with the best you can afford. After all, there's no sense spending umpteen dollars on your race car, only to lose it off a cliff because you skimped on the trailer.

Look for highway-rated tires. AROS strongly recommends the use of bias-ply tires, advising that radials tend to produce an unsettling sidewall "walk" that can cause problems. If you must use radials, say the folks at AROS, inflate them to the highest pressure allowed by the manufacturer. Gordon Webster of TrailerSource, on the other hand, says he loves radial tires and recommends them. The decision is yours; just make sure that the tires are in good condition and rated for the load they will be carrying.

Look for low deck heights and long ramps. This will help you avoid "high centering" your low-slung race car when you're driving it on or off the trailer. If your car is particularly low, be sure to get a "beavertail" and extra long ramps. Ask the seller for a guarantee that the trailer will load your car.

Avoid bolt-together trailers. According to the folks at AROS-who service many types of trailers-bolt-together types have an inordinate amount of problems. Look for welded trailers with components of structural steel rather than rolled form sheet steel. All-aluminum trailers, if welded, are also excellent but expensive. "Amen," says TrailerSource on this last statement.

Be an informed buyer. A knowledgeable salesperson should ask you lots of questions pertaining to your intended cargo load. Know the weight, wheelbase, width, and center of gravity of your intended load (don't forget, the car can be loaded on the trailer facing in either direction to balance the load). Decide on any options you might need, like a tire rack or storage box. It's important to know these things before- hand, so a trailer can be built to accommodate all your needs.

Trailers should have adequate and effective suspension travel. Otherwise, your beloved race car will be forced to absorb the majority of the road shocks-not a wise thing. The torsion suspensions now featured on many trailers, like the Featherlites, Pace Americans and most other quality enclosed trailers, are a popular option.

Look for proper tie-down points. Is the tie-down point strong enough to hold the load? Vehicles should be tied down at the chassis, with the trailer absorbing any road shocks. There is some controversy surrounding this item, but the head honcho at TrailerSource sees this as the proper way to secure a car.

If you're purchasing an enclosed trailer, look for one with a curved or V-shaped frontal area. TrailerSource recommends a curved or V-shaped front because this significantly reduces aerodynamic drag. Also, look for a ramp door with more than two hinges to support the load. Four hinges in the same area tend to distribute the weight on the door more evenly, prolonging both hinge and door life. And unless you're into serious weight-lifting, make sure the ramp door has spring assist.

Ask about the warranty. Does the manufacturer stand behind its work, or is it a fly-by-night operation?

Ask lots of questions. If you're dealing with a reputable outfit, they won't shy away from your questions and concerns.

Remember, the more you know, the less chance you'll have of getting suckered into a bum trailer.

TRAILERING TIPS:
Once you've purchased the trailer that meets your needs, the following safety and operational pointers should be observed:

Always check the trailer to make sure it's locked securely to the hitch. Never assume that "the other guy" did it. It pays to check. Also, use a trailer lock or padlock to secure the release latch in the down position.

Try to use about ten percent of the trailer weight as tongue weight. This means that if you're pulling a 5000-pound load, you should try to place about 500 pounds over the tongue. More tongue weight will stress the hitch and restrict the steering capacity of the tow vehicle, while less weight can cause dangerous fishtailing. Never have less than 75 pounds over the tongue.

Bent tongue jacks are a common problem, since people often do not wind up the jacks enough to clear the ground. A swing-away jack is therefore preferable, and will usually cost no more than $25 extra.

Before you even start, make sure that your vehicle is capable of safely towing the load. Check your owner's manual for towing capacities, then make sure you buy a hitch that is capable of safely towing the load. Finally, never have more weight behind you than in front of you. The tow vehicle should always weigh more than the trailered load. "It is very comforting to have more in front," Webster says, "but dualleys often can pull 12,000 to 18,000 pounds safely."

Check the trailer's ID plate and the sidewall of the tires to determine maximum tire inflation pressures. Always run the maximum recommended tire pressures. Check the tires, the lug nuts, and the wheel bearings often to ensure proper operation.

Double safety chains should always be used. AROS recommends that you cross the chains under the coupler, with one hookup going from the left side of the trailer to the right side of the hitch, and the other crossed under the coupler from the right side of the trailer to the left side of the hitch. Make sure the safety chains are attached properly. Keep the chains short enough to be effective, but long enough to allow proper turning movements. If they are too long, just twist them.

Never overload the trailer. Check the Gross Vehicle Weight rating on your trailer to determine capacities.

TrailerSource adds the following advice regarding tires and trailer loads: "Check the max weight rating on the tires. Add them up and multiply by 115 percent for the maximum GVW of the trailer. 'Cheap' trailers are often advertised as 7000-pound GVW, but the tires may only carry 5000 pounds or so. That may be enough for your rig, but know what you are buying."

Avoid using bumper hitches that aren't attached to the frame. Also, avoid using the common stock truck bumper with holes for the trailer ball. Many of these bumpers are very weak, and may only be held to the truck with two or four hardware-quality bolts. Read on to learn more about how to choose a proper hitch.

Adjust the brakes every season. They can wear down to almost no stopping power if you let them slide.

HITCHES:
The second important ingredient in the towing equation is the proper towing hitch. The use of the wrong hitch can lead to disaster. To learn more about hitches, we contacted Rick Preston at Rick's RV Center in El Cajon, CA. Rick and company have been specializing in hitch applications for more than 20 years. Rick provided us with plenty of insights into proper hitching techniques; he also put us in touch with the Draw-Tite company, one of the largest and oldest hitch manufacturers in the country. These two professionals provided us with a cornucopia of information.

HITCH TYPES:
RECEIVING AND NONRECEIVING HITCHES
There are basically two categories of hitches: receiving and non-receiving. Receiving hitches feature a removable ball mount containing the trailer ball; this coupler is connected to a receiving hole on the tow vehicle. This allows for various types of ball heights and types to be used. To change heights, you simply slide one receiver out and slide a new one in. Non-receiving hitches are one-piece hitches that attach permanently to the tow vehicle. Ball height is generally not adjustable, which eliminates some of your ability to ensure level towing. (A trailer will tow better when very close to level, and an unlevel trailer may overload one axle.)

WEIGHT-DISTRIBUTING HITCHES
Weight-distributing hitches apply leverage between the trailer and the towing vehicle, thus allowing the tongue weight (TW) to be carried by all axles of both the tow vehicle and the trailer. These trailers are ideal if you have a very light tow vehicle and a very heavy load to tow. Greater TW loads can be towed with this type of hitch; in addition, a weight-distributing hitch gives the vehicle and trailer a level tow, which provides better control and less stress on all components. Weight-distributing hitches will also help to eliminate sway, but only if the sway is attributable to an imbalanced trailer load.

These hitches are also height adjustable, but because they can interfere with the transfer of braking forces, they ARE NOT recommended with surge braking systems. This is because the weight-distributing apparatus can often keep the surge cylinder from completely engaging or disengaging. Therefore, electric brakes must be used with these hitches.

TrailerSource points out that these types of hitches are often sold for applications where they are not really needed, so check around before buying one. Doing one wrong can make things worse.

TONGUE WEIGHT AND GROSS TRAILER WEIGHT
The two most important factors to selecting the proper hitch equipment are gross trailer weight (GTW) and tongue weight (TW). Tongue weight is the downward force placed upon the hitch ball by the trailer tongue (or coupler). In most cases, it should be 10 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight (GTW). The gross trailer weight is the weight of the trailer combined with the weight of the goods being trailered.

To determine tongue weight, simply place a scale under the tongue jack. To ensure proper readings, make sure the trailer is level. Use a box or pieces of wood to bring the coupler up to normal height. A household scale can usually measure up to around 300 pounds, but if you'd like to measure higher weights, AROS recommends the following method: Place a household scale and a brick of even thickness three feet apart. Set a piece of pipe on each, and lay a wood beam across the two. Reset the scale back to zero to account for the weight of the wood and pipes. Center the tongue jack on the wood beam, making sure that the trailer is loaded and even. (Make sure to block the trailer wheels to prevent unwanted movement.) To calculate the TW, multiply the scale reading by three.

HITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
Hitches are divided into several categories depending upon their weight-carrying capacities and abilities.

WEIGHT-CARRYING CLASSES
CLASS I: Loads up to 2000 lbs. GTW, TW to 200 lbs.
CLASS I, 2500 Series: GTW to 2500 lbs., TW to 250 lbs.
CLASS II: GTW to 3500 lbs., TW to 300 lbs.
CLASS III: GTW to 5000 lbs., TW to 500 lbs.

WEIGHT-DISTRIBUTING CLASSES*
CLASS III: GTW to 4000 lbs., TW to 350 lbs. (some have GTW of 5000 and 7500 lbs.)
CLASS IV: GTW to 10,000 lbs., TW to 1000 lbs.

*Some types of vehicles cannot use some of the heavier hitches, so check applications before purchasing a tow vehicle.

HITCH TIPS
Here are several tips to help you out when you purchase your hitch:
· "The single biggest mistake is to not have a transmission cooler on an automatic transmission [vehicle]," TrailerSource's Webster points out. You will kill your automatic box if you run without one.

Go to a qualified hitch installer. Rick at Rick's RV Center says that while many types of automotive shops sell hitches, very few people know what it takes to install them correctly. Professional shops like Rick's RV and TrailerSource learn about the customer's needs before they recommend a hitch. They also make sure that every trailer towing combination is absolutely level before it leaves the shop. If the tow vehicle/trailer combination doesn't sit level, chances are the hitch wasn't installed correctly.

Ask lots of questions. Make sure that the installer knows everything about your needs before deciding what to install. Ask if the installer is insured (as well as the manufacturer). If the manufacturer is producing a quality hitch, they'll be willing to stand behind it.

Before buying a tow vehicle, make sure that the vehicle will safely tow the intended load. As Rick puts it, having a big engine isn't enough. The chassis, brakes, transmission and suspension must also be capable of handling and controlling the trailer load.

Trailering is a much more complex subject than many people suspect. The improper use of trailers and hitches can lead to disastrous, if not fatal, consequences. It pays to be aware of what's involved. Take care and pay attention to the tips offered here; they may help to ensure that your next trailering attempt isn't your last one.

SOURCES
TrailerSource
117 Barber Rd.
Marietta, GA 30060
(800) 241-4275

Tew Hitch City
1450 N. Nova Rd.
Holly Hill, FL 32117
(904) 248-0007

Trailer World
800 Three Springs Rd.
Bowling Green, KY 42104
(800) 872-2833

AROS Manufacturing Co.
411 N. Marshall Ave.
El Cajon, CA 92020
(619) 579-0484

Rick's RV Center
1546 E. Main
EI Cajon,CA 92021
(619) 440-8616

Brown Cargo Van
870 East 29 St.
Lawrence, KS 66046
(800) 255-6827

J.P. Molnar has been racing for more than 20 years, has driven for and owned two championship-winning teams, and has a long history in motorsports marketing and sales training. He is also the founder of R.A.V.E. (Racers Against Violent Environments), an organization dedicated to helping reduce domestic and environmental violence among race fans and the general public.